ONE minute I was upright, the next I was lying on my back covered in fluffy, sparkling snow.
While the crowds and the show-offs are drawn to the bigger, flashier resorts like Chamonix, this small and bijoux hamlet, at the foot of Mont Blanc, is the perfect place for beginners to hone their skills.
Being quieter, there are fewer queues for the lifts and more space on the slopes, but there are still blue, red and black runs as well as off-piste areas to keep experts entertained.
If you’ve been inspired by Channel 4’s The Jump and fancy being taught by a pro, I recommend my instructor Morgane at the resort. Her cousin Coline Mattel is the poster girl for Les Contamines after taking bronze in the ski jumping at the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014.
The village seems to have a knack for producing champs, as fellow resident Marie Marchand-Arvier also represented France at the Games.“Les Contamines could be the only ski resort in the world with an artist in residence”
Les Contamines could be the only ski resort in the world with an artist in residence. Keep an eye out for Nikki Heddle’s impressive land sculptures. Past works include giant circles on the slopes as well as 2,000 multi-coloured flowers arranged in a meadow in the snow.
If you discover that skiing’s not your bag, you can always try your hand at some Nordic sports. Billed as a Scandinavian-style resort, Les Contamines offers ski jumping, snowshoe walking, biathlon, ice climbing, telemark skiing and dog-sledding.
Its authentic mountain restaurants are another reason why this is such a special resort.
One morning I went hiking in the nature reserve’s frosty forests to soak up the scenery and stopped for lunch at the Refuge Auberge de Colombaz. Here there is a warm welcome for those coming in from the cold in the shape of huge, steaming plates of boeuf en daube served with winter salad and crusty bread.
Meanwhile, in the village, there’s restaurant L’Ô à la bouche, residence of superb chef Fabrice Boidard.
The best way to arrive is by horse drawn carriage through the snow – seriously! In Les Contamines, it’s a popular way to get around.
My evening meal at this Michelin-starred eatery began with Kir Royal cocktails followed by an amuse-bouche of beetroot mousse, then courses including chicken, crab and rabbit with chocolate for pudding and liquor Genepi with sugar lumps to finish.
SNOW BEAUTIFUL: Some of the impressive land sculpture by artist Nikki Heddle [Natalie Chalk]
Meanwhile, at La Roselette, a small mountain chalet restaurant, I
recommend sampling the gooey cheese fondue. Traditional mountain fare
like this may be calorific, but it will give you the energy boost you
need to get back on the slopes.
I stayed at the three-star hotel
La Chemanaz, complete with heavily-sloped roof and classic timber frame.
Inside it’s a mix of warm woods, quirky carved furniture, animal print
throws and a roaring fire that instantly takes away the cold. It also
has a sauna and Jacuzzi.
While there are a few bars in Les
Contamines for some après ski drinks, nighttime entertainment mainly
revolves around restaurants.
My evening activity involved
reviewing my performance while sipping the hotel’s house cocktail called
Givre Doux, a mix of almond syrup, white wine, orange zest and
sparkling water with a handful of boozy sultanas at the bottom.
It’s a suitable tonic for anyone who has spent more time sitting down on the slopes than skiing down them!
