Winning tip: El Ateneo Gran Splendid
There are stunning bookshops in the world and then there is El Ateneo
Grand Splendid. Once a theatre and cinema, it opened in 1919 and became
a bookshop 81 years later. Inside El Ateneo clients are respectfully
quiet, just like an audience right before the start of a show. Sit in
the cafe, order a cafecito, leaf through a Buenos Aires city guide and enjoy the majestic uniqueness of this book haven!
La Bomba de Tiempo music nights
‘The Time Bomb’ offers amazing live instrumental music from an
eclectic range of musicians set in the open air Ciudad Cultural Konex
venue. Hosted every Monday, the night generally attracts a younger crowd
and an upbeat yet relaxed atmosphere is guaranteed. Tickets available
on the door and the drinks are well priced. Look out for the local
vendors punting their home cooked wares to the queues outside.
The Chocolate Box football stadium
La Bombonera (The Chocolate Box) is the football stadium
where Boca Juniors play, and if you catch a match there you’ll get a
real flavour of the city – even if you don’t like football. The
spectacular stands rise from the houses and shops of La Boca
neighbourhood, south of the city centre. Just go with the flow - expect
fireworks, in every sense.
Free walking tours
Every day two free walking tours happen in Buenos Aires: the first
goes around San Telmo. The wonderful guides will teach you about area,
focusing on architecture and giving you special insights into its
history. And takes you past an incredible ice-cream store. The second
tour covers the beautiful areas of Recoleta and Retiro. The guides are
incredibly friendly and give you tips on how to look after yourself in
the city and where to go after.
Fine dining in secret
Buenos Aires is famous for its steak houses and pizzerias, but some
of the best food in the city is found in people’s homes. There are
dozens of secret “closed-door” restaurants hidden around town, often run
by top chefs wanting to offer something different for true foodies in
intimate settings. The best I know of is Casa Felix, in an art deco
home, where the menu is sourced from the garden where you enjoy
cocktails when you arrive.
Frank’s bar
Yes, you will need a password to get in and yes, you need to go to a
phone box to tap in a four-digit code, but, yes, it’s totally worth it!
Great drinks coupled with a vibrant atmosphere make this an absolute
must in Buenos Aires!
Tango at La Ventana
To see Argentine tango at its best, visit La Ventana in San Telmo. A
visit here includes delicious food and a mesmerising professional tango
show. These shows take place each night and the dancers’ passion for
their art really comes through. We all felt a tad emotional and in awe!
Even though I saw this show on a visit to Buenos Aires four years ago I
can still remember the feeling and power portrayed by the
Street art tour
The Buenos Aires street art walking tour will give you the insight
into the various artist who’s work is found all over the city and the
mural projects that are on the go. Following this exercise you will a
bite to eat but beware the local empanadas are highly addictive!
Fuerza Bruta theatrical event
The Fuerza Bruta is an interactive experience like no other. Found in
the Recoleta area, the venue feels more like a local students’ union,
complete with cheap beer in the bar beforehand. The show begins with
pounding drums and chanting and flows full force into 90 minutes of
dreamy otherworldly chaos. Expect to see sprites running along the
walls, girls sliding through water inches above your head and members of
the audience being plucked out of the crowd and lifted high into a
inflatable dome. Leave your camera at home and expect to get wet.
San Telmo neighbourhood
One of BA’s best spots is San Telmo, the oldest neighbourhood in the
city. It is a slope that starts with Bolivar street and ends in Parque
Lezama just in front of the Museo Historico Nacional. Along the
block of faded grandeur there are beautiful buildings from the 19th
century and many restaurants and cafés. Traditional Argentinian fare at
La Popular de San Telmo is ideal for a quiet lunch during the week.
Don Julio restaurant
Don Julio is an authentic Buenos Aires dining experience: it exudes a
sort of 1950s atmosphere, brick walls with signed bottles of wine in
every nook and cranny, brown leather tablecloths and smart waiters.
Enter and your appetite is whetted by a smoky aroma of grilled tender
steaks cooking and musky Malbec swilling around in the customers glasses
at this parrilla in trendy Palermo.
Two-course lunchtime menu from £15,
Two-course lunchtime menu from £15,